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"Sogn og Fjordane 2013" skiing photo album is ready!!!

https://picasaweb.google.com/104731257111633930392/SognOgFjordane2013?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Geitaryggen. Guided tour.

Torgier and Pål visited Fjærland for the first time. Together we ski tour  Geitaryggen 1441m - spectacular ridge with hanging cornices.

Guided tour. Frudalshesten and Troget

Team enlarged with Ola and Jørgen on our next trip.
Together we top tour on Frudalshesten 1554m and Troget 1566m.

Jostedalen-Fjærland-Nordfjord

After a few rest days we made a trip around the biggest Norwegian glacier Jostedalsbreen. We started ski tour in Jostedalen towards peak 1678m in Vassdalsfjellet ridge.
More pictures from Jostedalen (2012) at Maciek´s Kaminski album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/107194943219483910289/JostedalenSogndal2012?noredirect=1

This is our next stop in Fjærland - awesome tour on Nyastølsegii 1505m.

The round trip we ended up in Loen at Nordfjord where we top toured Skåla 1848m.

All together ca 5000 meters up and then exiting downhill ride, mostly in very good snow condition.

Fjærland. Kvitevardane and Melsnipa

Fjærland (at the end of Fjærlandsfjorden) is a place with special kind of beauty. It is hard to believe but before they´ve built tunnels this place was completely isolated by mountains ranges. The only possible access until 1986 led by the water

Frudalstunnelen

Top tours are mostly 1500 meters altitude difference with spectacular view on fjord and hanging glaciers of Jostedalsbreen. We chose Kviteverdane 1445m as our first destination.

Bøyadalen

The next day we went ski touring on Melsnipa 1547m. We started this trip from the village Jordal.

relative?

Vetlefjorden

We´re going to hang out in this area more often!

Sogn og Fjordane vs Provance

Are we in Norway?

Since we’ve started our stay in Sogn og Fjordane in February util mid-April we had 95% of sunny days. This weather reminds me of our trip to Provance in 2009

https://picasaweb.google.com/107194943219483910289/Prowansja2009?noredirect=1 

(Maciek´s Kaminski album).

The ice season is finished. It’s time to focus more on skiing.

For the next two weeks Maciek Kaminski is going to be our guest, and at the same time my ski touring partner in the area. Alaskan husky dog - Sid will keep company with us.

We started with a little warm up close to our house. It was two trips, one of them over Tyin lake and another Falketind massive, both of them switched my muscle into the touring mode.

Tyin lake

Pawel Karczmarczyk Chillup Guide and Maciek Kaminski

Falketind (left) and Hjelledalstinden (view from Stølsnosi)

Kjerrskredkvelven WI5+, ca 1000m, Gudvangen

09.03
We climbed with Martin Skaar Olslund again.
We went for a big one!
Kjerrskredkvelven ca. 1000 m route (600 m of vertical climbing) in Gudvangen

After temperature changed the ice was very crunchy.
Some of the hits made a few meters cracks.
On some pitches the ice was loose. Climbing needed a lot of cleaning for good ice tools placement and protection.
Anyway we did good timing (car to car 11,5 h)
Awesome line!

Full photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/104731257111633930392/Kjerrskredkvelven?authuser=0&feat=directlink
News from Polish climbing portals:
Wspinanie.pl
http://wspinanie.pl/serwis/201303/14kjerrskredkvelven-pawel-karczmarczyk-norwegia.php
Drytooling.com.pl
http://drytooling.com.pl/serwis/newsy/klasyka-zimowa/6167-mocne-lodowe-przejscia-pawla-karczmarczyka-w-norwegii

Kjorlifossen WI5, 400m, Råsdalen

03.03
A friend of mine Piotr Rajski (sport climber) after some trays on ice asked me:
- how about some multi-pitch, grade 5-ish?
I said:
- Kjorlifossen!

I think it was a great challenge for him:-)

News from Polish climbing portal Wspinanie.pl :
http://wspinanie.pl/serwis/201303/05pawel-kaczmarczyk-vicky-vette-norwegia.php

New variant on Vettisfossen "Vicky Vette" M7+ WI 6 OS (natural protected)

The ascent had the two stages

First (22.02)
Me, Piotr Michalak and Lars Nilsson went to try new variant on the left side from main ice fall.
I led two pitches: 1. M6+, 30m; 2. M7+ 50m, all OS (natural protected)
Because we started a bit too late and it was a bit too hard for my friends we rappel without conection to main ice fall.

Second (26.02)
I came back after 3 days with Martin Skaar Olslund and we did whole ascent.
Martin led first pitch, I did second again.
He added third pitch, he connected the variant to the main ice fall M5 WI5 OS.
Than we climbed three pitches pure ice WI5, WI6, WI6
It took 10 hours.

We left 3 pitons (one on the first pitch and two on the second).
Variant requires set of cams from 0.3-2 (or tricams), set of stoppers, 10-12 quickdrows (we used mostly long, on 60 cm slings).
For the ice part: additionaly 10-12 ice screws (also long slings, good ice for protection is behind the "cauliflowers").

New variant we named "Vicky Vette" M7+ WI6 300m.
I think it is great alternative (for the right "zig zag" variant) for those who are looking for more constant climbing when the lower curtain is not connected to the ground.

Full photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/104731257111633930392/Vettisfossen?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Article in Norwegian Klatring magazine:
http://www.norsk-klatring.no/Ute/Alpin/Ny-mixlinje-inn-i-Vettisfossen
News in Norwegian portal isklatring.no

Double Whammy WI6, 300m, Årdalstangen

20.02

Toghether with Øyvind Eek we climbed "Double Whammy", 300 meters ice fall.
Over the Årdalsfjorden with amazing view of alpine scenery of Hurungane (West Jotunheimen).

Årdalstangen

Hurrungane

Full photo album:

https://picasaweb.google.com/104731257111633930392/DoubleWhammy?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Job done!

After four years of education (courses in Tatra mountains and the Alps) in Polish Mountain Guide Association PSPW, one year of aspirant training and three finals exams I become a Mountain Guide with international  certificate IVBV/UIAGM.

fot. Piotr Drożdż

Thanx for all friends and family for support!

News from polish portal dry tooling.com.pl :
http://drytooling.com.pl/serwis/newsy/prasa/2297-mikolajczyk-mikler-stoch-ciesielski-karczmarczyk-nowi-przewodnicy-ivbv

POKAZ SLAJDÓW /Kraków 01.04.2012

POKAZ SLAJDÓW Alpinizm i trekking w małych Himalajach. KABKA3 1998 – 2008

Kraków 01.04.2012, niedziela, 17:00
ul. Sobieskiego 9, Kraków

Tematem pokazu bedą głownie wspinaczki w północnej części Centralnego Kaukazu,
na terytorium republiki Kabardyno-Bałkarii.

http://slotfestkrakow.blogspot.com/

TREKKING NA KAUKAZIE / ELBRUS 2012

TREKKING NA KAUKAZIE / ELBRUS 2012

Elbrus jako najwyższa góra Europy od lat przyciąga wielu turystów
i wspinaczy. Ale wysokość to tylko jedna z cech Elbrusa – góry należącej
do grupy szczytów o specyficznej urodzie, wyróżniających się
charakterystycznym kształtem i położeniem. Większość szczytów z tej grupy to wulkany takie jak Fujijama, Ararat czy Kilimanjaro. Podobne jak one,
Elbrus góruje nad całą okolicą.
Tak jak i inne wielkie i osamotnione szczyty, Elbrus czaruje swoim pięknem, jest doniosły i nieprzewidywalny. Nawet jeśli potrafisz ogarnąć go wzrokiem,
nie możesz zdać sobie sprawy z jego ogromu, dopóki nie zaczniesz wspinać się na jego ośnieżone stoki.

W sezonie 2012 zapraszamy w terminie 15.VII-31.VIII

W ofercie mamy zrówno szybkie wejścia na szczyt (8-10 dni), z aklimatyzacją na stokach Elbrusa i góry Czeget jak i połączone z trekkingiem lub wspinaczką w dolinie Adył-su i Bezingi.

WSPINACZKA ALPEJSKA NA KAUKAZIE 2012