The ascent had the two stages
First (22.02)
Me, Piotr Michalak and Lars Nilsson went to try new variant on the left side from main ice fall.
I led two pitches: 1. M6+, 30m; 2. M7+ 50m, all OS (natural protected)
Because we started a bit too late and it was a bit too hard for my friends we rappel without conection to main ice fall.
Second (26.02)
I came back after 3 days with Martin Skaar Olslund and we did whole ascent.
Martin led first pitch, I did second again.
He added third pitch, he connected the variant to the main ice fall M5 WI5 OS.
Than we climbed three pitches pure ice WI5, WI6, WI6
It took 10 hours.
We left 3 pitons (one on the first pitch and two on the second).
Variant requires set of cams from 0.3-2 (or tricams), set of stoppers, 10-12 quickdrows (we used mostly long, on 60 cm slings).
For the ice part: additionaly 10-12 ice screws (also long slings, good ice for protection is behind the "cauliflowers").
New variant we named "Vicky Vette" M7+ WI6 300m.
I think it is great alternative (for the right "zig zag" variant) for those who are looking for more constant climbing when the lower curtain is not connected to the ground.
Full photo album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/104731257111633930392/Vettisfossen?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Article in Norwegian Klatring magazine:
http://www.norsk-klatring.no/Ute/Alpin/Ny-mixlinje-inn-i-Vettisfossen
News in Norwegian portal isklatring.no
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