Friday, 26 February 2010

Kaukaz; Elbrus 5642 m (21-29.06.2010*) - wycieczka skiturowa

ELBRUS 5642m


Elbrus jako najwyższa góra Europy od lat przyciąga wielu turystów i wspinaczy. Ale wysokość to tylko jedna z cech Elbrusa – góry należącej do grupy szczytów o specyficznej urodzie, wyróżniających się charakterystycznym kształtem i położeniem. Większość szczytów z tej grupy to wulkany takie jak Fujijama, Ararat czy Kilimanjaro. Podobne jak one, Elbrus góruje nad całą okolicą. Znajduje się on jedenaście kilometrów na północ od głównej kaukaskiej grani i przewyższa inne szczyty o 1500-2500 metrów. Tak jak i inne wielkie i osamotnione szczyty, Elbrus czaruje pięknem bycia górą ulotną i nieprzewidywalną. Nawet jeśli potrafisz ogarnąć go wzrokiem, nie możesz zdać sobie sprawy z jego ogromu dopóki nie zaczniesz wspinać się na jego ośnieżone stoki. Nigdy nie będziesz podejrzewać, jak jest on wysoki i majestatyczny, dopóki jego lśniący, zalodzony szczyt nie wynurzy się z ponad chmur.
Przeżyj wspaniałą przygodę narciarską na dachu Europy. Zobacz zapierający dech w piersiach widok ze szczytu i ciesz się wspaniałym zjazdem na nartach o przewyższeniu wynoszącym prawie trzy kilometry.



PROGRAM:


1 Dzień: lot o Moskwy, a stamtąd do Mineralnych Wód, oraz transport do hotelu „Siedem szczytów”.
2. Dzień: wjazd kolejką na wysokość 3050 i wejście na szczyt Cheget (3404 m) skąd nastąpi zjazd i powrót do hotelu.
3 Dzień: wycieczka skiturowa na przełęcz Beczo (3374 m) albo przełęcz Donguzorun (3198 m)**.
4 Dzień: Wjazd kolejką do stacji Mir (3470 m). Stamtąd wycieczka skiturowa na Skały Pastuchowa (4690 m), nocleg w chacie „Prijut 11” na wysokości 4157 metrów.
5 Dzień: Wjazd ratrakiem do Skał Pastuchowa, atak szczytowy na Elbrus, zjazd i nocleg w chacie „Prijut 11”
6 Dzień: Dzień rezerwowy, na wypadek niepogody.
7 Dzień: Zjazd narciarski do stacji kolejki „Stary punkt widokowy” na wysokości 2970, zjazd kolejką do stacji Azau (2200 m) i powrót do hotelu w Terskolu.
8 Dzień: Przejazd do lotniska w Mineralnych Wodach, przelot do Moskwy i dalej do Warszawy

CENY***:
1 osoba 4200 euro
2 osoby 2500 euro (od osoby)
3 osoby 2000 euro (od osoby)
4 osoby 1700 euro (od osoby)
5 osób 1500 euro (od osoby)


* Termin jest ściśle określony.
** Program w trzecim dniu zależy od posiadania zezwoleń na przebywanie w rejonie przygranicznym, o które należy wystąpić na co najmniej 60 dni wcześniej. W przeciwnym razie musimy zmienić program tego dnia.
*** Cena może się wahać w zależności od kosztów przelotu

Cena zawiera:
- Lot na trasie: Warszawa - Moskwa - Mineralne Wody – Moskwa - Warszawa
- Transport na miejscu
- Pozwolenia na przebywanie w strefie przygranicznej oraz na wejście do Parku Narodowego.
- Opłatę rejestracyjną dla zagranicznych turystów
- Noclegi:
· Hotel „Siedem szczytów” w Terskolu (śniadanie i obiado-kolację) oraz korzystanie z Fitness Centre z basenem i sauną
· chata „Prijut 11” ( noclegi ze śniadaniem i kolacją)
- Obsługa i opieka przewodników przez 9 dni
- Sprzęt ponad podstawowy (nie wymieniony jako osobisty)

Oczekujemy od naszych klientów:
- Dobrej kondycji fizycznej
- Podstawowego doświadczenia skiturowego oraz umiejętności jazdy na nartach poza trasą
- Ubezpieczenia od akcji ratunkowej w górach na terenie Rosji i transportu w razie wypadku, może być członkostwo w OEAV Oesterreichischer Alpenverein – www.alpenverein.at

Potrzebny sprzet:

- zestaw sprzętu skiturowego: narty z wiązaniami skiturowymi, harszle, buty skiturowe, foki, kije narciarskie (mogą być teleskopowe), gogle, oraz kask narciarski)
- zestaw wspinaczkowego sprzętu osobistego: uprząż, dwa 5 mm repiki (60 i 120 cm), dwa zakręcane karabinki, dwa zwykle karabinki, raki z podkładkami antyśnieżnymi, czekan turystyczny.
- zestaw lawinowy - detektor lawinowy, sonda i łopata
- ciepłą odzież - kurtkę puchową, komplet (spodnie i kurtka) odzieży docieplającej np. Polarów i odzieży wiatro i wodoodpornej, komplet bielizny termoaktywnej, co najmniej dwie pary ciepłych rękawiczek, kominiarka, czapka, ciepłe skarpetki
- plecak skiturowy o pojemności około 45 litrów
- śpiwór oferujący komfort spania w temperaturach –10/-15 stopni
- latarka czołowa tzw. „czołówka”
- termos i camelbag
- żele energetyczne, napoje izotoniczne
- krem przeciwsłoneczny
- przeciwsłoneczne okulary na lodowiec

Uwaga!! Prosimy o zabranie lekkiego sprzętu - preferujemy styl „light and fast”

Monday, 22 February 2010

Caucasus; Elbrus 5642 m (21-29.06.2010) - ski tour trip

ELBRUS 5642m

The fact that this mountain is the highest in Europe suffices for many to go and see it, or climb it. But this obvious attraction is not the main one, for Elbrus belongs to a handful of mountains with a special kind of beauty, witch lies in their shape and setting. Most of them are volcanoes such us Fujiyama, Ararat, and Kilimanjaro. Like all these this mountain is a world apart. It stands 11km north of the Main Range and exceeds its neighbours in height by 1,500-2,500m. And like all big and isolated mountains it has bewitching features of being elusive and unexpected. Even if you see its details in clear-cut lines, you never realize all its vastness until you try to walk to some point on its slopes, and you never expect it to be so high and majestic until its shining snows at the top come out  of the clouds. Enjoy the great ski tour trip to top of Europe, breathtaking view from the summit and downhill skiing almost 3000m high difference.

PROGRAM:

1 Day. Fly to Moscow and Mineralne Vody. Transportation to hotel “Seven Peaks” in Terskol

2 Day. Journey by cable lift to 3050m high station. Top tour to Cheget 3404m and downhill skiing. Come back to hotel.  

3 Day. Ski tour trip to Betscho Pass 3374m or Dongusorun Pass 3198m. Come back to hotel.**

4 Day. Journey by cable lift to Mir station 3470m. Ski tour trip to Pastukhowa Rocks 4690. Overnight stay at Prijut 11 hut 4157m.

5 Day. Journey by snowmobile to Pastukhowa Rocks. Summit attack on Elbrus 5642m. Downhill skiing back to “Prijut 11 hut”. Overnight stay.

6 Day. Reserve day.

7 Day. Downhill skiing to Old view point station 2970m. Descent by cable lift to Azau 2200m. Come back to hotel in Terskol

8 Day. Transportation to the airport Mineralne Vody. Fly to Moscow and destination town.


PRICES***:

1 person 4200 euro

2 persons 2500 euro

3 persons 2000 euro

4 persons 1700 euro

5 persons 1500 euro

*       The term is strict

**      The program in the third day depend from possess passes to border zones. W need minimum 60 days to apply for it. Other way, we have to change the program in this day.

***    The price can change about the different of fly costs

 

Price Includes:

Fly to Moscow and Mineralne Vody (Round trip)

Transportation from the airport to Terskol (Round trip)

Border passes to border zones and Kabardino-Balkaria High Mountain Reserve

Registration for foreign visitors

Accommodation:

·      Hotel “7 Peaks” in Terskol (breakfast and dinner, fitness  centre including swimming pool and sauna)

·      “Prijut 11” hut (overnight with breakfast and dinner)

Guiding service for all days (9 days)

Over personal equipment


We Expect from our clients:

Good physical condition

Normal ski touring experience with off piste riding skills

Insurance  from the rescue actions and transportation in the case of accident:

(membership in OEAV Oesterreichischer Alpenverein – www.alpenverein.at or equivalent)

 

Equipment witch you need:

Ski tour pack (skis with ski tour bindings + crampons, boots, climbing skins, poles, goggles, ski helmet)

Personal alpine equipment (harness, two slip-knot 60 and 120 cm from rope 5mm, two runners 120 cm, two locker carabiners and two normal one, two ice screws, crampons with resists snow balling, piolet)

Avalanche set (avalanche transceiver, prob and shovel)

Worm clothes (down jacket, membran and thermal layer suite, two pair of warm gloves, underwear, balaclava, socks)

Ski tour Pack about 45 L

Sleeping bag (-10/-15 comfort)

Headlamp

Camelback, thermos

Energy gels, isotonic drink tabs

Sunblock cream

Sunglasses for glacier

Attention! Mind the weight of your equipment (we prefer light and fast style)

 

Russian grading system

Grading

The Russian grading system is one of the oldest and also one of the very few which takes altitude into account.

 

The basic grading factors are:

The technical difficulties of the crux sections of the route. Also their frequency.

The elevation of the peak and elevation of the critical areas of the route independent of their grade of difficulty.

The length of the route from base camp.

The average steepness of the route or/and traverse exposure.

The time required to climb the route.

 

In addition to the above mentioned factors there are further parameters which play a part in determining a route's grade:

Exposure.

Nature of the terrain.

Size, quantity and shape of holds, cracks, stances.

Clarity of the route line.

Climbing techniques required.

Use of specific aids.

Objective danger.

Support possibilities.

Most rational, least dangerous and most practicable method of descent.

 

The technical grades are the following:

I (easy) - broad scree or snow ridges, broken rock ridges or snow/ice slopes at angles of up to 30°. Basic alpine equipment only.

II (simple) - snow and ice sections at an angle of up to 30° and rocks requiring moderate climbing skills. Basic alpine equipment only.

III (moderately difficult) - snow and ice sections at an angle of 35°-45°. Steep rock features with good and numerous holds, not requiring artificial aids - descent of such passages being done by free climbing or abseiling. Basic alpine equipment only, plus normal rock climbing gear.

IV (difficult) - with steep rock sections suitable for free climbing. Snow and ice slopes up to an angle of 55°. Climbing with a rucksack is still possible but arduous. Descent of difficulties is usually by abseil. Full alpine and rock equipment required.

V (very difficult) - steep rock with a limited number of holds often needing artificial aids. Snow and ice slopes of more than 50° and difficult corniced ridges. Full alpine and rock equipment required.

VI (exceptionally difficult) - vertical and overhanging rocks or with few holds, cracks, stances etc. requiring mainly aid climbing. Hard mixed climbing or steep ice pitches. Maximum alpine ability required.

 

The overall grade of a route is defined within a scale of 1 to 6, with subdivisions A and B, as follows:

1A - Any type of ascent which can be regarded as more than simple hiking. No lower limit of ascent in meters and no specified elevation is needed to qualify for this grade.

1B - Easy ascent of a peak between 2000-5000 m over rocks, with sections of snow and ice or mixed ground.

2A - Ascent of more than 500 m on a peak between 2000-6000 m or traverses at this height on rocks, snow or ice with rock pitches of up to II, and/or snow and ice sections of up to 100 m of II.

2B - Ascent of a peak between 2000-6000 m or traverses at this height on rock, snow and ice with short sections of grade III rock or ice. Some pitons for belaying.

3A - Ascent of a peak between 2500-6500 m or traverses at this height on rock, snow and ice. Route length up to 600 m with long passages of II on rock and ice.

3B - Ascent (600 m or longer) on a peak between 2500-6500 m or traverses at this height on rock, snow and ice. Difficulties might include rock pitches of 20-30 m or more and snow and ice sections of 200-300 m of difficulty III, or shorter passages of IV.

4A - Ascent (at least 600 m) on a peak between 2500-7000 m or traverses at this height. The route would include 20-50 m rock pitches of IV, or snow and ice sections of 200-300 m or more of IV. The route might take 6-8 hours or more and require pitons belays. Traverses of this grade would combine at least 5 routes of Grade 3B or combinations equivalent to this.

4B - Ascent (at least 600 m) on a peak between 2500-7000 m or traverses at this height with rock sections of 40-80 m of IV, or short passages of V, and snow and ice sections of 300-400 m or more of IV. The route would normally take 8-10 hours or more and require the insertion of 8-10 pitons or more for belaying. Traverses would include at least 2 routes of Grade 4A.

5A - Ascent (at least 600 m) on a peak between 3000-7500 m or traverses at this height. The route would have long rock sections of III-IV with some pitches of V, or snow and ice sections of 300-400 m or more of V. The route could take 10-15 hours or more and would require the insertion of 20-40 pitons or more for belaying. Traverses combine at least two routes of Grade 4B and 1 route of Grade 4A.

5B - Ascent (at least 700 m) on a peak between 3000-7500 m or traverses at this height. The route would have long sections of III-IV with pitches of up to 50 m of V and short sections of VI, or snow and ice sections of 600-800 m or more of V. The route would take 15-20 hours and require the insertion of 30-50 pitons or more for belaying. Traverses combine at least 2 routes of Grade 5A.

6A - Ascent (at least 800 m) on a peak over 3600 m or traverses at this height on rocks or mixed ground. Sustained difficulty with an average grade of IV-V and pitches of 20 m or more of VI. The route would take 40-50 hours and require the insertion of 100-150 pitons or more for belaying. Traverses combine at least 3 routes of Grade 5B.

6B - Ascent of at least 1000 m on a peak over 4500 m or traverses of this height. Sustained difficulty of pitches at or over grade V. The route would take more than 48 hours to complete. Insertion of more than 250 belaying points. Usually this grade is reserved for the highest and most difficult peaks or desperate routes on lower peaks. Extremely hard routes on peaks below 4500 m can sometimes qualify for 6B.

 

Comparison

Russian Grade

Alpine Grade

UIAA Grade

1B

F/PD

I/II

2A

PD

II

2B

PD+

II/III

3A

AD

III

3B

AD+/D-

III/IV

4A

D

IV

4B

D+/TD-

IV/V

5A

TD/ED

V

5B

TD+/ED

V/VI

6A

ED/ED+

VI

6B

ED3 and up

VII