Sunday, 21 February 2010

Caucasus; Bezengi Valley - alpine climbing

BEZENGI VALLEY

Bezengi is called 'The Presidium of the Caucasus Mountains'. Two massives - the Northern and the Bezengi Wall - make the fame and pride of the district. The great variety of climbing routs and hiking trails provides opportunities to both beginners and experienced masters.

THE NORTHERN MASSIV

The Northern Massif is a huge 15-km-long horseshoe consisting of nine main summits, five of which are higher than five thousand metres. From east to west, there are Koshtantau - 5151 m; Tikhonov Peak - 4670 m; Krumkol - 4676 m; Eastern Mijirghi - 4927 m; Western Mijirghi - 5025 m; Borovikov Peak - 4888 m; Pushkin Peak - 5100 m; Eastern Dykh-tau - 5180 m; and the Main Dykh-tau - 5204 m.

BEZENGI WALL

If the weather allows, the residents of the Bezengi camp can see the same picture from morning till night: a nearly regular triangle towering in the alignment of the canyon. It is the legendary Gestola, one of the gems of the famous Bezengi Wall (small part of the 12-km-long mountain range). If you wont see more you have to join the trip witch leads to the Austrian overnight camps and to the Jungi-kosh hut. Here it is, the beauty! From left to right you can see the Main Shkhara, 5068 m; Western Shkhara, 5057 m; Shota Rustaveli peak, 4960 m; Main Jungi-tau, 5085 m; Katyn, 4974 m; Gestola, 4860 m; Lyalver, 4350 m; 4310 Peak. The Wall, mailed in a snow-ice armour, with a height difference of about 2 km makes a great impression.

PROGRAM (According to your choice*) 14 days                                           (01-14.06.2010)**/***

“Saratov Round-the-World Tour” 1 day trip

A one-day route with an ascent along a path at any side, crossing the Mijirghy glacier at the second level, and the descent at the other side. It is the favourite walk route of Yuri Sergeevich Saratov, The Head of the Bezengi rescue service. On the tour we will organize “parcour” for training with crampons and ice tools. In the extra day we will provide the rock climbing training on bolted routes beside the Bezengi camp

UKYU CANYON – “WARM CORNER” 3-4 days trip

To the north of the canyon, there are Gidan - 4167 m, Small Ukyu - 4240 m, Ukyu - 4346 m. To the right, one can see the massif of the Archimedes Peak - 4100 m - with a glacier hanging over the camp, Western Urals - 4300 m, Eastern Urals - 4150 m, Maly Urals - 4200 m, Dumala - 4557 m.

In the Ukyu area one can find routes from 1st to 5th category of difficulty. This district is very popular; passages from the tents are short (30-45 minutes), the routes are comparatively easy, the altitude difference is not large. The place is good for the beginners Other visitors can find interesting routes for them too.

KRUMKOLSKY OVERNIGHT CAMP AND CAMPS “3900” 3-5 days trip

From the Krumkolsky overnight camps situated on the second level moraine of the Kundyum-Mijirghi glacier, a brave mountaineer would go across the ice-fall to the third level and then to the so called camps '3900'. Experienced people call the ice-fall "The Bezengi's Khumbu". Being inferior to its Nepal brother in length and area, the Bezengi ice-fall is as chaotic, unpredictable, and dangerous as Khumbu. A marvelous view opens from here to the huge pyramid of Koshtan-tau 5151 m. A number of routes of 2-3 category of difficulty start from the circus. The chain of summits (Panormny Peak - 4176 m, Ullu-auz - 4675 m, Kundyum-Mijirghi - 4500 m, Ptitsy (Birds)) is connected to the north-east crest of Koshtan-tau, where the route 4B c/d goes.

ALONG THE BRNO PEAK 3-4 days trip

From the circus 1-2-category routes leading to the Brno Peak (4100 m), Kursantov Peak (3850 m) or to the 4th-category route to Misses-tau (4427 m).

Tsanner pass and overnight camps on the Black Screes 3-5 days trip

These are where one could climb the western wall from and go the Lyalver 4350 m and Gestola 4860 m summits.

JUNGI-KOSH 3-5 days trip

The hut construction in the alpine style big enough to accommodate 20 people is situated at the altitude of 3,200 meters. Around it there are a lot of places for tents. These are so called Austrian overnight camps. The hut is standing opposite the western summit of Shkhara and a wonderful view to the whole Wall. There is a various possibility for climbing in this area with routes of all category of difficulty.

*       You can decide about the length of your trip and the level of difficulties

**      The term is strict but you can stretch it for some extra days

***    We need minimum 60 days to apply for border passes to border zones

 

Prices:

1 Person 5300 euro*

2 Persons 3400 euro/person*

* The price can change about the different of fly costs

Price Includes:

Fly to Moscow and Mineralne Vody (Round trip)

Transportation from the airport to Bezengi Camp (Round trip)

Border passes to border zone and Kabardino-Balkaria High Mountain Reserve

Registration for foreign visitors

Accommodation (depend from availability):

·      “Lower Tower”: Double-bed rooms with bathroom, extra bed possible, includes "patio" on a roof with possibility to make fire/BBQ.

·      Higher Tower”: Double-bed rooms with bathroom, extra bed possible, audio system, mini-kitchen, library, bar, fireplace, refrigerator, small room for laundry, includes "patio" on a roof with fireplace, storage-room for climbing gear in the basement.

·      cottages: 2-bed rooms with WC and shower, balcony, hall

Meals in the canteen of Bezengi Camp (Breakfast, lunch and dinner)

Guiding service for all days (14 days)

Over personal equipment

 

Extra service:

Rental shop equipment, refill gas and fuel point, grocer's shop, bar with snacks, sauna.

 

 We Expect from our clients:

Good physical condition

Technical preparation and experience according to your choice.

Insurance  from the rescue actions and transportation in the case of accident:

(membership in OEAV Oesterreichischer Alpenverein – www.alpenverein.at or equivalent)

 

Equipment witch you need:

Personal alpine equipment (harness, two slipknots 60 and 120 cm from rope 5mm, two runners 120 cm, belay and rappel device, three locker carabiners and two normal, crampons with resists snow balling system, helmet, alpine ice axes)

Boots (We recommend double with inner boot)

Rock climbing shoes (for long routes)

Worm clothes (down jacket, membran and thermal layer suite, 3-4 pair of warm gloves, good for gear operations, underwear, balaclava, socks)

Climbing Pack 45-55 L.

Bivouac equipment (tent, sleeping bag -10/-15 comfort, mat, isolation foil, stove, pots, water bag)

Light weight food for bivouacs, energy gels, isotonic drink tabs

Camelback, thermos

Headlamp

Sunblock cream

Sunglasses for glacier

Attention! Mind the weight of your equipment (we prefer light and fast style) 

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